November 2021 Daily Journal For GTNP & JH

750line

Welcome to November!

Please take a minute and register to sign up to follow this site. I’d love to have another couple hundred new subscribers from the group visiting the site this fall and winter. MJ

Subscribe to Best of the Tetons!

Receive email notifications of new posts.







Covid-19 Mask Update: The Teton County Commissioners extended the Mask Mandate until the end of 2021. Masks must be worn inside buildings, on public transportation, taxis, and tours.

750line

New Month : New Week : New Moon : New Daily Journal : New Park — November 1st

Well, it’s a new month and a new week. In a couple of days, there will be a new moon. Yep…you are looking at the first entry for the new November Daily Journal.

Road ClosedThe “New Park” item in the list above takes a bit of artistic or editorial license. Let me explain: Yesterday, we could drive the Moose-Wilson Road along with the middle section of the Teton Park Road. Yesterday, fishermen were still fishing on the National Elk Refuge and hikers and bikers were still using the pathway along it. Yesterday, you could stop at Dornan’s to pick up some snacks or fill the coffee thermos, but the stores and restaurant are closed for the month of November. Only a few days ago, we could drive up and down Mormon Row and we could drive down to Schwabacher Landing. But, all of those areas are now padlocked. In a few days, there will be hunters, outfitted in orange, driving up and down roads hoping to nail an elk. Those are only a few of the recent and upcoming changes in Grand Teton National Park.

Break in the Clouds

Of course, not all of the news is bad news!

The big summer crowds are gone! The Park has a much more relaxed and “open” feel, even if some zones have no vehicular access. At least until December 15th, people can still hike into areas of the Snake such as Schwabacher Landing. For the hikers making the 1.25 mile walk, they’ll likely the the area entirely to themselves. This morning, I drove from the Moose Visitor’s Center area to the end of the road at Death Canyon on the Moose-Wilson Road and passed only two vehicles—one coming at me and one that passed me while I was taking photos of a moose cow in the water. I was able to park in a regular spot and walk down the road without the scorn, whistle, or screams of a Wildlife Brigade volunteer. Those volunteers are almost all gone now. A bear or moose sighting can still create a bit of a jam, but jams will not been as large or develop as fast as in the summer and fall.

Days are shorter and cooler, but usually not bitter cold. Wildlife typically hangs out longer, and generally speaking, the light quality is better. Soon, Daylight Savings Time switches back, so I end up at home and in front of my computer more. That’s good for my ever swelling Lightroom catalog. It is bursting at the seams and needing some severe culling! I took roughly 5000 images just today! The photos you see in this initial post were all taken today!

Trumpeter Swans

Photographic Opportunities in November

Landscapes: September and October were transitional months, changing from summer, to fall, and eventually into pre-winter. November, much like the previous two months, is also a transitional month. The high country already has snow, but early snow falling in earlier months melt on the valley floor. By mid-November, temperatures drop to the point all new snow will become part of the winter scenery. In other words, we are in for a change to the landscape.

Wildlife: When I think of November, I think of great moose viewing and photography. Swans also move into the valley for the winter. Bighorns will be migrating to Miller Butte on the National Elk Refuge, just in time for the annual head bashing rut. November can also be a good month for grizzlies, badgers, foxes, otters, and owls. I’ve had several reports of wolves being seen this year, too. Bison are currently split into two groups, one in the Kelly area and a smaller group in the Elk Ranch area.

Plan Ahead!

Remember, there are no facilities open inside Grand Teton National Park. While you can fill your gas tank at one of the “pay at the pump” locations, there are no stores or shops for snacks or lunch. Rest rooms can be found at the Kelly Warm Springs, Moose Visitors Center, just inside the Moran entrance, at the Taggart Lake trail head, and at the gas station at Jackson Lake Lodge. The restrooms around the Jackson Lake dam are still open but will be plowed in soon. Restrooms at Flagg Ranch are usually open.

The gas station and convenience store along the highway in the Buffalo Valley are traditionally open. I understand the small cafe on the Buffalo Valley Road is open through much of the winter.

Freemont

Moose feast on fresh willow leaves in the river bottoms all summer. By November, the leaves are gone and moose switch to bitter brush, found in the sage flats. While there might still be remnant evidence of the fall rut, most of it is over. The bulls are beginning to gather in small groups following “the season”. Instead of moving back to the river bottoms at first light, more of them stay out in the sage all day. This big bull, Fremont, just showed up today…right on queue.

Slim Jim

November can be a great month to see moose! I mentioned that already but it’s worth repeating. Today, for example, I saw at least 21 moose, and most of those were seen in the first 30 minutes!

Moose Cow in Moose Pond

Along with the bitter brush, some moose modify their diet to include aquatic vegetation. I caught this cow dining along the Moose-Wilson Road this morning.

Moose Cow in Pond

I would have preferred to find Fremont, Shoshone, or Hoback in the pond, but any moose in the pond is a welcome change.

Mule Deer Buck

Elk are mule deer are also coming off their rut season. Yesterday, I hiked out to the Old Patriarch Tree. As I came over the last ridge, I saw two large elk herds scamper off when they saw me. Apparently, their rut is still ongoing. I’ve seen a lot of Pronghorns in the Elk Ranch area, but they will soon begin migrating out of the valley. Over the past few years, a few Pronghorns have wintered on the National Elk Refuge.

Berries and Leaves

While November can feel like a gray month, there are still opportunities to find bright colors. Rainy days make subjects more interesting and the colors can be much more saturated. Of course, upcoming snow days offer great times in the field.

Rain Drops

“Bad weather” for some people can be “good weather” for others looking for unique shots.

Mallards in Flight

The observation platform along Flat Creek can be a hopping place in November as Trumpeter Swans and a wide variety of waterfowl move through the valley. You might also catch a few river otters on some days. The edges of the creek will likely freeze creating additional opportunities.

Ravan in Flight

Lastly, I like to “practice” on what some people call mundane or common subjects. The plan is to work out all of the “kinks” to be ready for the more exotic subjects like eagles, owls, herons, and other raptors.

750line

I renewed my permit to do tours in the National Elk Refuge for the 2021/2022 season. The use of the permit officially begins November 1st. Bighorns are start showing up and are usually in good numbers by Thanksgiving.

Best of the Tetons Photo Tours

I offer year round photo tours in Grand Teton National Park and Winter tours in the National Elk Refuge.  Book now! Click the image for additional information.

750line

Additional Related Links and Pages

750line

 

The post November 2021 Daily Journal For GTNP & JH first appeared on Best of the Tetons, Area Info & Photography.

October 2021 Daily Journal For GTNP & JH

750line

Welcome to October!

Please take a minute and register to sign up to follow this site. I’d love to have another couple hundred new subscribers from the group visiting the site this summer. MJ

Subscribe to Best of the Tetons!

Receive email notifications of new posts.







Covid-19 Mask Update: The Teton County Commissioners extended the Mask Mandate until the end of 2021. Masks must be worn inside buildings, on public transportation, taxis, and tours.”

750line

Three quarters of 2021 is in our rear view mirror, leaving us with three of the more interesting months. Foliage season, like the current moon, is waning, but it is not over! As the month begins, there are still plenty of brightly colored leaves around the valley. In many areas, the foliage season came four or five days earlier than “normal”. That’s my unscientific take after living here for 35 years. The Moose and Elk are in their rut, along with Deer and Pronghorns. The rut for the Bison is essentially over, but you might still find a bull interested in a late season cow. Grizzlies traditionally are more visible during October. Black Bears will polish off the berries along the valley floor and head back up the hillsides soon. As the leaves drop from the trees, Owls may become more visible. Worth watching!

Important Info for GTNP travelers:

Beginning on October 5th and 6th, the Park Service and crews will be working on the JH Dam.Through traffic over the dam will be “iffy” at best. Expect over an hour delays on days when they are letting vehicles through. Read More Here.

Park Service is in the process of cutting back on the flow of water coming out of the dam. Reflections at Oxbow Bend will be affected. Read More on the JH News & Guide site

New 2021 Foliage Reports Page: Click Here

This page will cover the changes in the foliage from September 11 to around October 11 of 2021. Check it regularly! The page also contains important foliage related links.

Alpenglow at Oxbow Bend

Alpenglow at Oxbow Bend:

October 1, 2021 – Friday

Most of my time today was spent trying to capitalize foliage. There will be other days for wildlife, but this time slice of the year is so fleeting. Each year, the anticipation I have as the foliage season is bookended by the sadness I feel as I watch the wind strip the leaves. Luckily, the foliage season doesn’t happen all at one time. It stretches out over several weeks, but we are definitely on the back side of the curve.

Oxbow Bend

Oxbow Bend: As of this morning, the water level was almost at the normal summer height, but expect it to drop rapidly for the next week or two. I would have loved to had at least a few clouds today, but as I write this first of the month post, clouds are rolling in.

Upper Oxbow Bend

Upper Oxbow Bend: This stand of aspens are still looking great.

Oxbow Aspen Stands

Oxbow Aspen Stands: Using a telephoto lens, it is possible to isolate small sections of any scene, as I did in this photo.

Country Roads

Country Roads: This is the time of the year to do your own “scavenger hunt”, searching for chunks of color scattered around the valley. This was taken above the Teton Science School.

Cottonwood Leaves

Cottonwood Leaves: In December, I’ll be photographing frost, ice, and icicles along Ditch Creek, but right now it is loaded with fallen leaves. Of course, they are everywhere now.

TA Moulton Barn

TA Moulton Barn: As documented on the New 2021 Foliage Reports Page, the cottonwoods along Mormon Row are turning now. Catch them while you can!

Pronghorn Buck Chase

Pronghorn Buck Chase: For the most part, I was set up to photograph landscapes today (ISO 100, F/8 to F/11, and relatively slow shutter speeds). I noticed a buck Pronghorn approaching Antelope Flats Road, so I drove to the area. He crossed and went on before I had a chance of take photos but another one came up that I didn’t see. The bigger buck bolted across the road to chase the smaller buck away. As I mentioned, my camera was set up for landscapes and didn’t have time to adjust the settings. When he ran across, I took a few shots. At only 1/250th second, there was no way I was going to freeze the action of the fast moving buck, but luckily I was panning at the same speed he was running. That gave me a relatively sharp head, yet his legs and have motion blur and the grasses have motion blur streak. Pronghorns, like Moose, drop their ears back on their neck when chasing another buck.

September 2021 Daily Journal:

I posted a ton of photos in September. Check that page out, too!

Help Support the Site?

If your are so inclined, I added a small section in the Navigation Bar to allow readers help me offset the rising costs of gasoline and web site fees. Several readers have made donations over the past few months…thanks to all of them!

750line

Additional Related Links and Pages

750line

Best of the Tetons Photo Tours

I offer year round photo tours in Grand Teton National Park and Winter tours in the National Elk Refuge.  Book now! Click the image for additional information.

The post October 2021 Daily Journal For GTNP & JH first appeared on Best of the Tetons, Area Info & Photography.

“Up” Memory Lane in Grand Teton National Park – The Hunter Hereford Ranch

Hunter Hereford Barn

Most people go “down memory lane” but if you want to visit these historic barns and structures, you’ll have to take a short hike “up” a slight incline!

Bill & Eileen Hunter used the ranch to raise purebred Hereford cattle. The historic Hunter Hereford Ranch rests remotely at the far east end of Antelope Flats Road. 

Hunter Hereford Barns

Even though the barn and buildings are accessible to the public, few people actually visit the location. I suspect there are two major reasons for the lack of tourist activity. One: It takes a mile to mile and a half hike on a slightly inclined road. Two: Many people are unsure if it is legal to go there. I can help with the latter.

Grand Teton National Park took possession of the property and buildings in 1985 after the passing of Eileen Hunter. The region is inside the Park’s boundaries, but they don’t promote the area at all. In fact, a small wooden sign near the road says “authorized vehicles only”. I flagged a Park Ranger a couple of years ago and asked about the sign. He told me we could drive to the fence and park, then hike in. He added the road and parking area is an access point to the National Forest for the bison hunters.

Outbuildings

“The Wild Country” Movie Set

“The ranch was used as a movie set for the film The Wild Country in the 1960s. Many of the original James Williams homestead buildings were altered slightly in order to fit a more romanticized Hollywood interpretation of what western architecture should look like. The alterations to the buildings were only done on the northern elevations that would be visible in the movie and could be easily removed. The wooden shingle roofs were covered in wood planking, and walls were covered with vertical log-slab siding. The most obvious alteration can be seen on the open hay shed, which was built up to resemble a church. The structure was originally open on all four sides and supported by posts. Just the north elevation was visible in the movie; this wall was enclosed with clapboard siding, and faux windows were installed with Greek Revival decorative pediments.” Source: Jackson Hole Historical Society

Outbuildings

The Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum has detailed information about this homestead. Click Here!

Memory Lane

To get to the Hunter Hereford Ranch, follow Antelope Flats to the East Boundary Road, then drive an extra few hundred yards to the locked gate. Park there, then hike up the two track road. At a normal pace, it would take roughly 20-25 minutes to make it to the Hunter Hereford structures. Along the way, you’ll pass another smaller homestead, shown at the bottom of this page. I don’t know the name of that house and barn but it is also owned by the Park.

House Details

Other than the large barn, most of the old buildings are in disrepair and all are boarded up. Still, they are interesting! The Park Service uses some of them for storage.

Barn Detail

This barn is in great shape! 

“The barn that was designed by Piers was an attempt to create a modern building that fit in with the more rustic style found throughout the valley. Nearby barns at Mormon Row were constructed from logs piece by piece and had a modest appearance. The Hunters wanted to emulate the building materials used on Mormon Row but on a more impressive scale. The resulting barn, despite being inspired by the small rustic structures nearby, is anything but rustic. The barn was built onto a foundation of cement, with an enormous hayloft that was well beyond the engineering capabilities of the early homesteaders. The barn was electrified and plumbed, where the early homes in the valley were without these modern amenities. The hayloft was also designed to hold dances and featured a staircase rather than a ladder. The impressive structure still stands today.:” Source: Jackson Hole Historical Society

Gears, Sprockets & Chains

For the “textures hounds”, there are plenty of photographic opportunities on and around the structures.

Gears, Sprockets & Chains

Gears, Sprockets & Chains

Handle

This handle was found on one of the sliding doors on what looks like an old garage.

Antlers and Skull

I hiked to the Hunter Hereford Ranch with a tripod, camera and 60-600mm zoom lens. The lens with a large range gave me a lot of options, but you could use several individual lenses to do the same thing.

Barn Doors

There is no access to the interior of the main barn. No telling what’s inside!

Small Barn Pano

I don’t know much about this barn and ranch house. It’s located about half way up the road.

Small Barn

The metal roof on this barn has several large tears in it. For this photo, I did some digital roof repairs!

Main House

The house is still in pretty good shape but could use some tender loving care. Hopefully, the Park Service will “see the light” and preserve all of the  the buildings for future generations of park visitors.

Photography Info for these Images

All of these images were taken on September 17, 2021 using a Sony A1 mirrorless camera and a Sigma Sport 60-600mm lens (Sigma does not make that lens for a Sony E Mount, so I bought the Canon version of the Sigma lens and Sigma to Sony adapter). I mentioned earlier that I took a tripod with me, which helps with panos, but wouldn’t have been absolutely necessary for most of these images. I chose to use a vintage photo “preset” in Lightroom for processing. Presets are a good way to give each photo a similar look and feel—and they save a lot of time!

750line

Please take a minute and register to sign up to follow this site. I’d love to have another couple hundred new subscribers from the group visiting the site this summer. MJ

Subscribe to Best of the Tetons!

Receive email notifications of new posts.







Help Support the Site?

If your are so inclined, I added a small section in the Navigation Bar to allow readers help me offset the rising costs of gasoline and web site fees. Several readers have made donations over the past few months…thanks to all of them!

750line

Additional Related Links and Pages

750line

Best of the Tetons Photo Tours

I offer year round photo tours in Grand Teton National Park and Winter tours in the National Elk Refuge.  Book now! Click the image for additional information.

The post “Up” Memory Lane in Grand Teton National Park – The Hunter Hereford Ranch first appeared on Best of the Tetons, Area Info & Photography.

Moose Velvet Period — The End of the Beginning

Beginning sometime in June, bull Moose begin regrowing the antlers. The bulls would have spent the winter months antlerless. I typically don’t spend a lot of time with the Moose at that time of the year. Their June coats are usually mangy and shaggy—far from photogenic! Gradually, through July, their winter fur is replaced with a sleek, summer coat and their new antlers begin to take shape.

Moose Group

On numerous occasions, I’ve overheard tour guides telling their clients that Moose are “solitary” animals. Especially during the time they are growing their velvet covered antlers, I’ve found them to be quite social. Normally, a group will consist of two to six bulls, but will occasionally include a cow or a cow and calf. Possibly, this behavior gives them extra security with all the extra eyes and ears—alert for predators or other kinds of danger. I guess the guides read about the solitary nature of Moose in a book, but I find it to be an incorrect statement for our Wyoming Shiras Moose in and around Grand Teton National Park! The guides never like it if I challenge them on the statement even if, at the time, they are looking at four bulls together.

Sparring Bull Moose

During this late summer period of antler growth, their primary jobs are to stay safe, get fat, and protect their velvet covered antlers. Smaller bulls will occasionally “faux” spar, but their antlers seldom actually touch.

Running Bull Moose

Moose often move slowly through a scene, grazing along the way, but they are deceivingly fast. At times, the younger bulls can be playful.

Shoshone

By late August, the bull’s antlers are fully formed. At this point, the tines underneath the velvet are actually pointed and sharp even if they look blunt and rounded. For many bulls, the “time of velvet” is about over and it’s time to “turn the page”.

Duplex with Bloody Velvet

The velvet strip period  is the “end of the beginning”. It marks the end of the antler growth and the beginning of the rut. This “transition” is not pretty! Interestingly, the short period attracts a lot of photographers from all over. Capturing a bull Moose stripping seems to be a “badge of honor” or a “feather in their photographic cap”. In reality, few of the photos will ever be printed and displayed on the walls of the photo buying public. When my wife sees one of these photos, I can always expect her to respond with, “Eeeewwwwwwww, that’s gross!…we’re not putting one of those on our walls!”

Hoback with Velvet Strips

It is always amazing to me how the blood and minerals passing under the velvet layer miraculously form the distinctive shape of an antler. In fact, each bull’s new antlers resemble the pattern they’ve had for years. If still in their prime, the large bulls can add a tine or two each year. By mid-August, it is possible to identify many of the larger bulls. Some sort of genetic coding supplies the instructions for the oozing supply of antler nutrients. It’s mind boggling!

By the time bull start stripping their velvet, I have already spent a solid month, or more, following the bulls and documenting their antler growth. I feel as though I have developed some sort of “one sided” relationship with them. I’m compelled to see the changes through, even though, in an odd way, it feels a bit like ambulance chasing! I’m on a quest to see blood!

Hoback with Velvet Strips

I’ve never seen much of a pattern to it. A small bull might strip on the same day as a large bull. Another small bull might be the last one to strip their velvet. Around here, the span of time for all of the bulls to strip is only about a week.

Shoshone

If a bull waits until the right moment, the velvet comes off in large sheets. Their velvet can be essentially stripped in 15 to 30 minutes. Other bulls miss “the” moment and the velvet dries on the antlers—requiring them to scrape vigorously for a week or longer. Shoshone, seen above, is a pro at it!

Hoback with Velvet Strips

During the velvet stripping time, I tend to like the portrait shots over the full body shots, but of course, I shoot both. I use either a 200-600mm or 60-600mm zoom lens at this time of the year to give me both options.

Sheridan Moose

Sheridan Moose

As you can see in the preceding two photos, their simply more drama in the details of the ragged antlers when zooming in on their head and rack.

Hoback with Velvet Strips

I’ve heard people suggest that some bulls eat the hanging velvet, but I am not quite sure that’s the case. I’ve never seen one eat it after it was clinging to the willows, but I suppose that doesn’t mean it never happens. Instead, I believe the bulls are simply using any means the have available to them to remove the dangling velvet. They do, however, shake their heads vigorously in a effort to lose the loose velvet.

Hoback with Velvet Strips

Whether Hoback knew it or not, this was THE time for him to strip. Large sheets of velvet were ready to fall off.

Hoback with Velvet Strips

But, he missed the window! For the bulls that miss their opening, it can take a week or so to scrape their shreds of velvet. They stop regularly to eat the willows and other leafy plants.

Evening Hoback

Silverberry grows along the Gros Ventre River and is another food source for the Moose.

Hoback with Velvet Strips

The outer velvet usually strips off easily, but the more hollow shaped inner paddles take a little more effort.

Sheridan Moose

I took this photo one morning…then…

Sundance

…found the same bull the next day. Overnight, he had finished removing all but a small amount of velvet.

Sheridan Crossing

Bulls will continue to thrash willows and branches for much of the fall and throughout the rut period. I’ve heard some people suggest they do it to show discontent, but again, I think that’s a bogus statement. They do it to finish cleaning their antlers, to attract cows, and to let other bulls know they are in the area.

Sparring Bulls

Once their velvet is stripped, actual “sparring” can begin. Call it “practice” for what might someday a battle for keeps. In 15 plus years of photographing Moose, I’ve only seen one serious battle and it lasted only 10 seconds. That day, the smaller bull learned quickly who was more powerful and backed off. A lot of the actual fighting must happen very early or very late. I see the broken tines and even large chunks of antlers missing soon afterwards and say, “Dang, I wish I could have been there”.

Wyoming’s Shiras Moose are the smallest of the Moose species. During the antler action weekend, I see some of the antlers from the huge Alaskan bull Moose and can only imagine the beast that hosted the huge antlers. The documentation I can find on Shiras Moose suggests they have about a 15 year life cycle. My wife has been working in the nursery at the Jackson Hole Presbyterian Church for over 25 years. She often sees young adults she took care of as toddlers in the Sunday nursery many years ago. She tells me she is proud to see them as young adults, but it makes her feel way too old. Knowing I have been photographing the Gros Ventre Moose for at least 16 years, the odds are almost 100% that I photographed some of our current largest bulls when they were “toddlers”. It make me feel old, but I am equally proud of “my boys”!

Shoshone

For this bull, Shoshone, the “end of velvet” marks the “beginning of the rut”. He’ll soon lose the shred of velvet near his eye and polish off the patch of velvet on the back of his left antler, but he’s already ready to start courting the cows. Up until this point, he has had no interest in any cow, though some of them seem to pick the largest bull and hang with them. Even at this stage, it is not uncommon for the large bulls to tolerate a smaller bull in his area. A bull can catch the scent of a cow at an incredible distance, even with the wind, and can travel miles to get to them.

Shoshone and Challengers

By late October, the rut is over, but the Teton bulls still assemble in groups to spar and enjoy each other’s company. One year, I counted 24 antlered bulls in an area about the size of a football field.

Three Bulls

By mid-December, and going into January, the majestic bulls start dropping their antlers. By that time, many of them have broken tines from battles I never got to witness.

Shoshone

It’s a sad time for me, but there’s always “next year”…and the Bighorns are probably in the rut on the National Elk Refuge!

750line

Best of the Tetons Photo Tours

I offer year round photo tours in Grand Teton National Park and Winter tours in the National Elk Refuge.  Book now! Click the image for additional information.

The post Moose Velvet Period — The End of the Beginning first appeared on Best of the Tetons, Area Info & Photography.