AZT – La Sevilla Campground to Grass Shack

Hiking Trail Through Desert Wildflowers

Day 12

This day was a day filled with mixed emotions and experiences. I started off acknowledging a lot of the worry that had been following me onto the trail, and made an intent to release them. While feeling lighter and better about the day early on, I came out of the small desert mountains beyond the ranch, where the trail opened up into a large valley between Saguaro National Park and myself. I also ran into Hemlock who was heading south, someone I had been chatting with before each of us started the trail. We had a nice conversation before we continued in our respective directions.

It was mostly flat and easygoing for the next several miles. Chipmunks, butterflies, and cottontail rabbits all fled the trail in front of me through the wildflowers and cactus. I soon rounded a corner and came upon a snake lying in the middle of the trail. I’m not very familiar with snakes, so although this one seemed non-threatening, I still threw a few rocks in its direction to see if it would voluntarily move. Without much success, I noticed I could pretty easily bushwhack around it, so I did so quietly and carefully while giving it plenty of room. One crisis averted, but more were soon to follow.

Arizona Trail Going Through Cactus

I continued down the trail enjoying its easy and gradual descent toward Saguaro National Park when I heard the sound that I most fear hearing in the desert: a rattler on a rattlesnake. Fortunately, this one was behind me a couple of dozen feet, so a safe distance, but still alarming. Two crises averted.

With the rattlesnake rattling around in my mind, I hadn’t even gone a mile before I heard the same sound again, but this time directly ahead of me about 10 feet. My plan to alarm them with extra heavy hammering of my hiking poles into the ground seemed to work. I backed up to give it some room, and it slowly uncoiled and casually slithered off the trail. Three crises averted, but I wasn’t done yet.

I reached Rincon Creek which was flowing nicely, and knowing that this was the last certain water source, I had some lunch and stocked up on water, forgetting that Hemlock had told me that there was plenty up Mica Mountain, where I was heading in Saguaro National Park. I crossed into the park boundary and just as quickly as the scenery became mesmerizing, the trail began to climb. Wildflowers exploded between a dense saguaro forest as the trail began a grueling ascent up the south side of Mica Mountain.

Wildflowers Along Arizona Trail

A few hours had gone by under the hot sun when I noticed I was needing some water. I didn’t want to stop because there were swarms of gnats that would instantly cling to any exposed skin, in this case mainly my face, as soon as I stood still. Regardless, I was getting dehydrated and needed to put a big dent in my water supply. I found a single, armless saguaro along the trail which provided just enough shade for me to stand in, and I dropped an electrolyte tablet into a liter of water and chugged it. I felt a lot better, but the trail was far from being done climbing and my water was getting low.

I hadn’t seen an AZT or park sign in a long time and I was beginning to wonder if I had missed a fork in my slightly dehydrated state. With the relentless sun bearing down and water running low, I decided I needed to figure out where I was. I saw a nice shady spot a short distance ahead and decided that that would do. As I approached, I noticed in the shadows a sign! I eagerly went to read it and discovered that I was actually still on the right trail. And better yet, camp was less than three miles away! Even better, just a short distance up the trail I found more water! I stopped to get a couple of liters before the gnats made the job nearly impossible. Four crises averted.

Feeling refreshed and reassured, I was now making much better time up the steep trail. I pulled out my phone to take a quick picture, but now noticed that my USB cable that I was using to charge the phone had broken due to the plug bending. I killed every process except the tracker I was using and left it in airplane mode and hoped it would at least make it to camp.

Soon enough, the trail brought me to the Grass Shack Campground where a creek was generously flowing next to it. Despite getting my permit, the campground was already occupied and was about to be more so. A guy sitting with a few teenage girls informed me about 12 more were on the way. He said it might be a noisy evening, but wouldn’t last long into the night. Good enough. Not quite a crisis to avert, but another one was coming.

Rincon Peak Above Mica Mountain

I headed to the back of the campground where I thought my site was supposed to be and set up my tent. Once inside to escape the gnats, I heard a very loud fly seeming to patrol my tent. I didn’t think much of it since I was desperately hungry. As I began to devour dinner (in my tent), I also took out my USB cable to see if I could crack it open to fix it back into place. A few moments later and it was charging my phone again! Five crises averted!

The bugs had died down by now and so I poked my head out the tent to notice an amazing sunset going on outside. I jumped out to do a few quick shots and then went back a bit beyond my tent to make a bathroom break. I went back by my tent and stood watching the sky when I noticed the fly buzzing nearby again. This was no fly though. I had apparently camped too close to a large hornet and it was clearly upset. Not being completely familiar with hornet behavior, I stood back as it hovered on the other side of my tent facing me, clearly guarding something. I thought I was giving it enough room but it made a pass around the tent, prompting me to back up a bit more. It wasn’t enough though. It came after me as I ran back toward the main campsite and took a swipe near my head, fortunately missing. I was nearly back to the larger group of campers, the rest of them having arrived by this time when I noticed I wasn’t being pursued anymore. I was very tempted to ask the group leader for some help moving my tent, but realized he’d be in the same danger as me. I stood there debating what to do for a little while when I realized that if they saw me, they might assume I was standing there for a different reason. I headed back up to my site solo, slowly and patiently to see if the hornet was still out. With my adrenaline still going, I eased in toward my tent, but no sounds. I opened it up to grab some of the heavier items and brought them down the small hill. One trip down. I went back up, grabbed my camera on its tripod, and brought it down. I was calmer, but the next step had me on edge. I pulled up one stake from the tent, and with five to go, began to make my way around the tent to get the rest, hoping the hornet wouldn’t be alarmed. One by one I pulled them up, and just as the tent began to fall after pulling up the last stake, I caught it to avoid any surprises. I quickly lifted it by the rod and carried it down. Finally my two hiking poles remained resting against a blooming manzanita tree that the hornet seemed to be guarding. No point in hanging around. I made a quick dash in, grabbed them, and ran back down. No pursuers. Six crises averted.

Rincon Peak Above Mica Mountain

After all that, it was finally time to rehydrate, set up bed, and get in a few token night shots before sleeping the day off.


Read on Source Site

AZT – La Sevilla Campground to Grassy Shack

Arizona Trail Desert

Day 12

This day was a day filled with mixed emotions and experiences. I started off acknowledging a lot of the worry that had been following me onto the trail, and made some intents to release them. While feeling lighter and better about the day early on, I came out of the small desert mountains beyond the ranch, where the trail opened up into a large valley between Saguaro National Park and myself. I also ran into Hemlock who was heading south, someone I had been chatting with before each of us started the trail. We had a nice conversation before we continued in out respective directions.

It was mostly flat and easygoing for the next several miles. Chipmunks, butterflies, and cottontail rabbits all fled the trail in front of me through the wildflowers and cactus. I soon rounded a corner and came upon a snake lying in the middle of the trail. I’m not very familiar with snakes, so although this one seemed non-threatening, I still threw a few rocks in its direction to see if it would voluntarily move. Without much success, I noticed I could pretty easily bushwhack around it, so I did so quietly and carefully while giving it plenty of room. One crisis averted, but more were soon to follow.

Saguaros and Wildflowers

I continued down the trail enjoying its easy and gradual descent toward Saguaro National Park when I heard the sound that I most fear hearing in the desert: a rattler on a rattlesnake. Fortunately, this one was behind me a couple of dozen feet, so a safe distance, but still alarming. Two crises averted.

With the rattlesnake rattling around in my mind, I hadn’t even gone a mile before I heard the same sound again, but this time directly ahead of me about 10 feet. My plan to alarm them with extra heavy hammering of my hiking poles into the ground seemed to work. I backed up to give it some room, and it slowly uncoiled and casually slithered off the trail. Three crises averted, but I wasn’t done yet.

I reached Rincon Creek which was flowing nicely, and knowing that this was the last certain water source, I had some lunch and stocked up on water, forgetting that Hemlock had told me that there was plenty up Mica Mountain, where I was heading in Saguaro National Park. I crossed into the park boundary and just as quickly as the scenery became mesmerizing, the trail began to climb. Wildflowers exploded between a dense saguaro forest as the trail began a grueling ascent up the south side of Mica Mountain.

Rincon Peak

A few hours had gone by under the hot sun when I noticed I was needing some water. I didn’t want to stop because there were swarms of gnats that would instantly cling to any exposed skin, in this case mainly my face, as soon as I stood still. Regardless, I was getting dehydrated and needed to put a big dent in my water supply. I found a single, armless saguaro along the trail which provided just enough shade for me to stand in, and I dropped an electrolyte tablet into a liter of water and chugged it. I felt a lot better, but the trail was far from being done climbing and my water was getting low.

I hadn’t seen an AZT or park sign in a long time and I was beginning to wonder if I had missed a fork in my slightly dehydrated state. With the relentless sun bearing down and water running low, I decided I needed to figure out where I was. I saw a nice shady spot a short distance ahead and decided that that would do. As I approached, I noticed in the shadows a sign! I eagerly went to read it and discovered that I was actually still on the right trail. And better yet, camp was less than three miles away! Even better, just a short distance up the trail I found more water! I stopped to get a couple of liters before the gnats made the job nearly impossible. Four crises averted.

Feeling refreshed and reassured, I was now making much better time up the steep trail. I pulled out my phone to take a quick picture, but now noticed that my USB cable that I was using to charge the phone had broken due to the plug bending. I killed every process except the tracker I was using and left it in airplane mode and hoped it would at least make it to camp.

Soon enough, the trail brought me to camp where a creek was generously flowing next to it. Despite getting my permit, the campground was already occupied and was about to be more so. A guy sitting with a few teenage girls informed me about 12 more were on the way. He said it might be a noisy evening, but wouldn’t last long into the night. Good enough. Not quite a crisis to avert, but another one was coming.

Southern Arizona Desert

I headed to the back of the campground where I thought my site was supposed to be and set up my tent. Once inside to escape the gnats, I heard a very loud fly seeming to patrol my tent. I didn’t think much of it since I was desperately hungry. As I began to devour dinner (in my tent), I also took out my USB cable to see if I could crack it open to fix it back into place. A few moments later and it was charging my phone again! Five crises averted!

The bugs had died down by now and so I poked my head out the tent to notice an amazing sunset going on outside. I jumped out to do a few quick shots and then went back a bit beyond my tent to make a bathroom break. I went back by my tent and stood watching the sky when I noticed the fly buzzing nearby again. This was no fly though. I had apparently camped too close to a large hornet and it was clearly upset. Not being completely familiar with hornet behavior, I stood back as it hovered on the other side of my tent facing me, clearly guarding something. I thought I was giving it enough room but it made a pass around the tent, prompting me to back up a bit more. It wasn’t enough though. It came after me as I ran back toward the main campsite and took a swipe near my head, fortunately missing. I was nearly back to the larger group of campers, the rest of them having arrived by this time when I noticed I wasn’t being pursued anymore. I was very tempted to ask the group leader for some help moving my tent, but realized he’d be in the same danger as me. I stood there debating what to do for a little while when I realized that if they saw me, they might assume I was standing there for a different reason. I headed back up to my site solo, slowly and patiently to see if the hornet was still out. With my adrenaline still going, I eased in toward my tent, but no sounds. I opened it up to grab some of the heavier items and brought them down the small hill. One trip down. I went back up, grabbed my camera on its tripod, and brought it down. I was calmer, but the next step had me on edge. I pulled up one stake from the tent, and with five to go, began to make my way around the tent to get the rest, hoping the hornet wouldn’t be alarmed. One by one I pulled them up, and just as the tent began to fall after pulling up the last stake, I caught it to avoid any surprises. I quickly lifted it by the rod and carried it down. Finally my two hiking poles remained resting against a blooming manzanita tree that the hornet seemed to be guarding. No point in hanging around. I made a quick dash in, grabbed them, and ran back down. No pursuers. Six crises averted.

After all that, it was finally time to rehydrate, set up bed, and get in a few token night shots before sleeping the day off.


Read on Source Site

AZT – AZ83 to La Sevilla Campground

Arizona Trail Desert

Day 11

It was a bittersweet and subsequently uneventful day. After having a great few days with Giggles, we realized that her leg was too injured to continue on the trail and that I would finish on my own. The trail didn’t change much in terms of diversity so my mind was stuck on her and whether the loneliness away from her would prevent me from finishing.

The trail was far from bland though. It weaved in and out of rolling hills and washes saturated with cactus, desert vegetation, and even wildflowers. Two welcomed features to shake up the scenery were a protected area around Cienega Creek where the trail dipped into shade and cool breezes beneath cottonwoods, and the other was when the trail went through a long tunnel underneath I-10. It’s the little things.

Arizona Trail Desert

As I approached La Posta Quemada Ranch, which didn’t seem too keen on talking to hiker-types, the sun was beginning to get low, so I knew I’d need to find a place to camp soon. I entered the ranch and walked to the main area, only to find that the campground I was looking for was still another mile down the trail, and they weren’t even serving ice cream anymore. It’s the little things.

The next campground was the La Sevilla Campground, found after many small ups and downs through a large array of different cacti, including saguaro which were finally beginning to adorn the trail.

I secured a site, stuffed myself with some dinner and chocolate, and began doing some night photography below the mesquite trees that created a canopy above the campground. Nearby, a group with the Conservation Corps played some music as I got ready for bed.


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Fly Fishermen and Photographers:

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Cut essentially from the “same cloth”, both seek solitude and beauty.

Over the years, I’ve met many photographers who were also avid fly fishermen. It seems the proportion of people sharing both passions is abnormally high.

Snake River Riffle

“Trout don’t live in ugly places.” I can’t remember where I heard this quote, but it stuck in my head when I heard it. We moved to Jackson Hole back in 1986 for exactly the same reason. We wanted to live in some place best described as “beautiful”. The Grand Teton range rises from the valley floor not far from my home in town. There’s not a better backdrop!  Jackson Hole has some of the best wildlife and landscape photography in the U.S. and some of the best fishing to boot! If that’s not enough, within a relatively short drive, I can be in Yellowstone or other “Blue Ribbon” fisheries.

Cutthroat Trout

Many of the people I’ve met come here for the same opportunities. Some are quite serious about both! Getting up long before sunrise wouldn’t phase either. Neither would staying out late into the nigh. Both “hope” for a fantastic day, yet are more than willing to accept only a good day. On days when the fish aren’t biting or the light and clouds are not cooperating, they are will to concede the day was still great if only because they got to spend it outside in such a beautiful place. Standards are not etched in stone, you know!

Salmon Fly

flyMost fly fishermen and photographers become good at either by paying attention to details. Fly fishermen are watching for hints of a pending hatch. A swirl in the water can indicate fish are seeing and feeding on tiny insects floating under the water, while noses out of the water might indicate they are feeding on flies in the surface film. Bubbles after a take can mean they are taking flies on the surface. A photographer, tuned to the surroundings, might be changing lenses or settings simply because they heard the distinctive honk of a nearby Trumpeter Swan. They can be clicking off shots while others are just beginning to change lenses. A photographer might drive by an area and notice peeled branches where a porcupine has been feeding. Most people would drive by and never see the clues—much less know to be looking for the barbed critter.

Calm Reflections

Cutthroat Trout aren’t generally known to be early morning feeders. Perfect! A photographer has a chance to take images of the morning sunrise and even a few moose before the first hatch. On most days, the water warms slightly around 10:00 am to even 11:00 am, initiating an insect hatch. Fishing can be great for an hour or two. During the heat of summer, terrestrials like grasshoppers can get blown into the water and bring nice fish to the surface. As the sun drops in the sky, photography usually gets better all the way to sunset. Caddis flies typically emerge later in the day, sometimes at sunset. It’s the one time of the day when the photographer/fisherman has to “pick a side”. For me, a fiery sky trumps rising fish!

Solitude

Solitude and Beauty: Most photographers and most fly fishermen I’ve met have spent time on the ski slopes at some point. They’ve chosen the solitude of a babbling brook and vista views over feeling like cattle being herded into chutes on the mountain. It’s not that they are anti-social, but simply made a lifestyle choice that suites them better. I am a “catch and release” fisherman. In some areas, like in GTNP, that’s a requirement. There are a few areas of the valley that allows taking a couple of fish within certain size slots. Aside from those places, a fisherman normally comes home “empty handed”…and usually with a few less flies in the vest than when they left. They bring home memories of the day, some of which have a tendency to grow in size over time. Photographers, on the other hand, normally come home with a card full of images that permanently document their outing—for better or worse. The antlers can’t get larger, but the details of how difficult it was to get the shots can get hazy or embellished over time!

Cutthroat Trout

 A Green Drake hatch can bring big fish out of the shadows and feed with reckless abandon. A decent cast with the right sized fly on the line often yields great results. Those days don’t happen too often, so when a fisherman gets to experience one, they’ll remember details of the day for a long time. Timing is everything! I experience much the same feeling when I see a big bull moose approach a stream in evening light. They stop to take a drink and then slowly make their way across the stream. With every click of the camera and every step the bull makes, I know in the back of my head it is an experience to be treasured. Once the bull disappears into the brush on the other side, I get to take a deep breath and understand why I live here and why I make it a point to be out as often as I can! >>MJ

Boots

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